Métiers d’art takes over this year’s watches and wonders novelties (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
Cover Métiers d’art at Watches and Wonders 2024 (Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

We wrap up our daily highlights from the watch fair with a look at stunning wrist art and an ode to classic black

Tudor introduces a new model to the Black Bay 58 family. Metier d'art takes centre stage at Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels and Louis Moinet.

And scaling the Mont Blanc of watchmaking mastery, Montblanc itself reaches a new peak. It’s not just a pen in your pocket anymore; it’s a statement of peak performance on your wrist.

Read more: Watches and Wonders 2024: Kylian Mbappé, Apo, Lee Jun-ho, and Jackson Yee lend star power on Day 3

Tudor adds a GMT to Black Bay 58 

Named after the year it was born, the Black Bay 58 is the first Tudor dive watch that is water-resistant up to 200m. The signature burgundy and black bezel with a 24-hour scale is now complemented with a GMT function, powered by its manufacture Calibre MT5450-U which is Master Chronometer-certified offered by Metas. The latter is the latest addition to the brand’s commitment to having its entire collection certified Master Chronometer for anti-magnetism, precision, and waterproofness. To qualify, it must also be COSC-certified.

The watch comes with a rivet-style 3-link bracelet or a rubber strap, both with a T-fit clasp for rapid length adjustment. 

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Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT with bracelet
Above Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT with bracelet
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Tudor Black Bay 58 18k
Above Tudor Black Bay 58 18k

The Black Bay 58 is now also offered entirely in 18-karat yellow gold, from case to bracelet to the signature snowflake hands. The luxurious sheen is perfectly matched with a “golden green” dial, giving the emblematic dive model a striking look.

See also: Watches and Wonders 2024: Highlights from Rolex

Back to black

There is a lot more to these new black watches than meets the eye. The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 is a limited-edition made with a new case material created using a pioneering process that captures CO2 from biogas production and mineral waste produced by recycling factories. Through this process, powder containing CO2 is obtained and then combined with ultra-light and resistant carbon fibre. This results in the innovative composite material, CARBO2, which is shaped into a sleek middle case for this world-timer that is made for adventure.

Similarly, the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic has a cool exterior in black, and it is hardy, thanks to the ultra-resistant and lightweight ceramic. The black ceramic is a direct reference to aircraft cockpit instruments, which is a key inspiration for Bell & Ross. It is the first time the brand is using this technical material in its urban line, and it pairs well here with the tinted transparent dial that reveals the mechanical self-winding BR-CAL.322 movement with a black ruthenium finish.

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Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2
Above Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2
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Above Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic

Métiers d’art takes over:

Louis Moinet goes on a world tour

Louis Moinet’s Around the World in 8 Days collection presents a spectacular homage to global travel and cultural diversity through the art of fine watchmaking. Each timepiece in this collection represents one of eight major cities around the world, showcasing the unique attributes and historical landmarks of each location.

For instance, the Paris watch features a jigsaw puzzle dial consisting of 81 pieces alongside a miniaturised Eiffel Tower crafted from an original beam of the tower itself. This meticulous attention to detail and incorporation of historical elements not only highlight Louis Moinet’s dedication to craftsmanship but also tells a visual story of global exploration and admiration.

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Louis Moinet Around the world in 8 days Singapore watch(Photo: courtesy of Louis Moinet)
Above Louis Moinet Around the world in 8 days Singapore watch (Photo: courtesy of Louis Moinet)
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Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Nuit (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Nuit (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

Van Cleef & Arpels ensures nature meets its lovers

Van Cleef & Arpels continues to enchant with its profound mastery of métiers d’art. The brand’s offerings this year include the Poetic Complications and Extraordinary Dials collections, each piece a testament to the maison’s dedication to blending traditional craftsmanship with innovative techniques.

For example, the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch features enchanting day and night animations on a dial crafted from aventurine glass and mother-of-pearl, showcasing technical prowess and artistic delicacy. These collections not only reflect the brand’s storied heritage in jewellery and watchmaking but also their commitment to pushing the boundaries of what is possible in wearable art.

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Hermès Arceau Chorus Stellarum (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Above Hermès Arceau Chorus Stellarum (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)

Hermès gallops in style

Hermès introduces a captivating approach to watch design with its Arceau Chorus Stellarum, inspired by the Chorus Stellarum silk scarf. This collection, limited to just six pieces each for the Horseman and Horsewoman versions, features dynamic appliques of skeleton riders on horses, rendered in mobile yellow gold. Activated by a spring mechanism, these figures animate a celestial scene crafted using champlevé enamel and colourful lacquer. This innovative design not only showcases Hermès’ unique flair for combining equestrian themes with whimsical art but also highlights their skill in creating engaging, narrative-driven pieces that are both aesthetically pleasing and mechanically sophisticated.

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