Cover Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

Direct from Geneva, the latest horological news from Tatler Asia’s watch editors attending the international luxury watch trade show

Day 2 continues to thrill with first hand look at new pieces from the likes of Bell & Ross, Cartier, Rolex, IWC Schaffhausen, and Vacheron Constantin. Cartier demonstrates why it's the jeweller to the stars with stunning interpretations of jewellery watches. Vacheron Constantin expands on its Overseas range in even more wearable sizes. And Rolex, the inventor of Daytona, has loosened up and is being rather playful for a change. 

Read more: Watches & Wonders 2023: Key highlights on Day 1

Read on to find out some of the best pieces we saw on Day 2 at Watches & Wonders 2023.

Rolex

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1908 Perpetual in yellow gold
Above 1908 Perpetual with white dial
Tatler Asia
1908 Perpetual in white gold
Above 1908 Perpetual with black dial

Welcome a new member to the Rolex family: Meet the Perpetual 1908, the first watch in the new Perpetual collection of classic contemporary watches. The '1908' in the name is derived from the year founder Hans Wilsdorf coined the name 'Rolex'. The ultra-slim 39mm case, in white or yellow gold, comes with a white or a black dial and features a small seconds counter at 6 o'clock. It is powered by Calibre 7140 constructed to include the Chronergy escapement, the Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorber, contributing to superlative chronometry. The leather strap is fitted with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp, in gold that always sits at the centre of the wrist.

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Rolex Day-Date 36 with a fun twist
Above Rolex Day-Date 36 with a fun twist

Like a breath of fresh Swiss air, Rolex debuted a surprising rendition of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date that is, as it is aptly described in the press release, "full of joy and energy". The media present had a ball trying on the watch on the wrist and turning the crown to discover the 31 different emojis in its date counter, and inspirational words such as "Peace", "Faith" and "Gratitude", in its day counter. The playful factor is amplified with a colourful dial created using champlevé enamelling to achieve the pattern of a jigsaw puzzle. The hour markers are baguette sapphires in shades that mimic the different colours on the dial. 

Cartier

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Above Cartier Clash [Un]limited

Tatler was privy to the reveal of this along with many other stunning jewellery watches by Cartier at the international luxury watch trade fair. But one look at the Clash [Un]limited, and you realise wearing it is a statement in its own right. The bracelet alternates brushed and satin-finish gold, and one of the references features a new purple gold, which is made by combining yellow and rose gold. The watch is powered by a quartz movement and is water resistant up to 30m.

Bell & Ross

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Above Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze

Taking inspiration from the beginnings of deep-sea explorations where the first modern divers’ equipment were made with bronze elements, Bell & Ross introduces the new BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze. The bronze used here is composed of 92 per cent copper and eight per cent tin to produce a tone that closely resembles the fittings of old sailboats or classic yachts, as well as the variety of bronze favoured  by contemporary designers and architects. With a case water-resistant to 300m and paired with a pearl white dial, this new nautical timepiece is limited to 999 pieces.

IWC

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Above IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40

Famed watch designer Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 from the 1970s has been reinvented as the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 this year and boasts the same bold aesthetic as its predecessor. Available in four new models—three in stainless steel and one in titanium—the standout has to be the reference in stainless steel with an aqua dial. This blue-green shade is a new signature colour for the brand, and is enhanced with a “grid” design. All four Ingenieur Automatic 40 models are powered by the in-house 32111 calibre with a power reserve of 120 hours and soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields.

Grand Seiko

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Grand Seiko Tentagraph
Above Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko introduces its first mechanical chronograph with the Tentagraph that boasts a high-beat movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Developed in-house in its studio in Shizukuishi, the Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5 is developed from the base movement of Caliber 9SA5 and beats 10 times per second for superlative precision. More importantly, it possesses the energy-saving Dual Impulse Escapement, which transfers energy efficiently to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and directly from the escape wheel.

Vacheron Constantin

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication
Above Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

Look closely at the watch face of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication and you will notice the depth of complications housed within its real estate. This unique piece by the maison features a moon phase at its core, along with a minute repeater, a tourbillon and a retrograde function. In all, the timepiece features 11 complications paired with a minimalistic, clean design. The white gold case houses the manual-winding 2755 TMRCCQP calibre that runs this mechanically complicated beauty.

Piaget

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Piaget Aura high jewellery watch
Above Piaget Aura high jewellery watch

Piaget is reclaiming its roots as a watchmaker with a fine jeweller pedigree, and vice versa, with the Aura high jewellery watch that is fully set with baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires. The sapphires are colour gradated, a process that took more than eight months to source and select. Powered by 430P Manufacture ultra-thin manual mechanical movement, it comes in two sizes and two different colour gradations. 

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