(Photo: courtesy of Kob D)
Cover Rare Patek Philippe Ref 3448 circa 1984 (Photo: courtesy of collector Kob D)

Building a personal compendium of Rolex, Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet timepieces may seem harmless, but how can a collector avoid this hobby from becoming an unhealthy obsession? Tatler talks to those in the know

The rhythmic sound of a ticking watch can be hypnotic—so much so that, for some, it can be the gateway drug to obsession, fascination and potential financial peril. Tatler met with Jackie Ho and Clarence Cheung, the co-founders of Hong Kong watch club Watch Ho & Co for a lunch at The Upper House in Hong Kong, where the duo joked about discussions between members about their never-ending wish lists. “It feels like having a Watch Addicts Anonymous meet-up,” says Ho. But there is a serious reality to this flippant conversation.

It is crucial to identify the fine line between being a discerning collector and a full-blown hoarder. A collector understands the timepiece, appreciates its craftsmanship and, most importantly, knows when to stop buying more. Sonia Samtani, a Hong Kong-based counsellor and hypnotherapist, says, “The basic difference between someone who has an addiction and someone with a passion is their level of control. You are in charge of your passion, whereas you feel taken over by your addiction and [might] do things that do not [align] with your own intelligence. In the long run, a person with an addiction to collecting and hoarding may find that it is getting in the way of their relationships, their finances, their health and their lifestyle.”

One could compare collectors to gourmets at a lavish dinner, relishing each dish, savouring the distinct flavours and singing their praises, sometimes even when nobody is listening. On the other hand, a hoarder is more like a kid in a candy store. To avoid becoming the latter, it’s important to understand if there is an emotional pattern that emerges while buying a watch. Samtani says, “Co-occurring conditions can be observed in some cases, which include compulsive buying, electronic addiction reinforced by spending time researching [online], other addictions like excessive alcohol consumption and smoking, which can be associated with showcasing their [luxury experiences] to the public, attention seeking and keeping up with the trends of society through social media.”

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Omar Traboulsi (Photo: courtesy of Omar Traboulsi)
Above Omar Traboulsi (Photo: courtesy of Omar Traboulsi)
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Traboulsi’s favourite brand MB&F’s MAD 1 red, green and blue editions (Photo: courtesy of Omar Traboulsi)
Above Omar Traboulsi’s favourite brand MB&F’s MAD 1 in red, green and blue editions (Photo: courtesy of Omar Traboulsi)

So what’s one major sign that the hobby is turning into an obsession? “When you start thinking of these watches 24/7. They’re constantly on your mind. [ You even] dream about them, and wake up the next day thinking: I’m going to put this watch on my wrist today,” Omar Traboulsi tells Tatler over a video call from Beirut. Traboulsi is one of the most notable watch collectors in the world. He previously worked in sales for watch portal Wristcheck in Hong Kong, then became its director of community, before he decided to head back to the Middle East to be with his family. 

Traboulsi describes collecting luxury watches as “obviously an expensive hobby [that] requires many sacrifices”; once it crosses into addiction territory, he says, it can even warp your sense of time—you start to see every second as a missed opportunity to buy an Audemars Piguet. The collector, who admits to being an emotional person, says that a healthy relationship with watches is “not about having the most significant collection, but the most meaningful one”. However, he admits that the emotional attachment he forms to his pieces makes this hobby very difficult for him because “you can never let go of any pieces even if [you don’t give them] the wrist time”. Traboulsi believes that, for many collectors, the joy and satisfaction come from the chase of a particular watch: “The minute it lands on your wrist, you’re thinking about the next piece.”

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Sonia Samtani (Photo: courtesy of Sonia Samtani)
Above Sonia Samtani (Photo: courtesy of Sonia Samtani)

One issue that many collectors on the cusp of addiction face is losing track of the treasures they already possess. When Tatler asked Cheung about the timepieces he had bought in 2023, he was lost in thought before he said, “In 2022 I was a loose cannon; 2023 was very disciplined—I bought just two. Ho immediately jumped in to ask, “Which two?” While Cheung named a Fr2nck Muller Vanguard (Franck Muller x Fxxking Rabbits) and Mr Jones Number Cruncher, Ho playfully reminded him of the Zentier z5 he purchased earlier in the year, seemingly forgotten in the thrill of new acquisitions. “When you struggle to recall the timepieces you’ve bought within the year, that’s a sign of an issue,” said Ho. 

We asked Samtani, who looks at the root causes of a person’s issues to help them address them, what she would do with a client who came to her with a watch addiction. “I would look at what luxury watches represent in a person’s subconscious mind, and understand the need that the watch is positioned to fill,” she says. It could be the need “to be acknowledged, be seen, be important, be as good as their peers or even be loved”. Someone who comes from “a wealthy background may feel a sense of scarcity or lack of emotional connection as much as a person who never saw luxury items growing up”. In her sessions, she identifies and addresses what’s missing using inner-child healing, catharsis and placing suggestions in the clients’ subconscious mind that encourage self-control. “We would be shifting the representation and association of what the luxury watch represents, so that the person is more in charge and can make choices using a sense of discernment of what is needed, rather than being taken over by an emotional need,” says Samtani.

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Some watches from Kob D's collection (Photo: courtesy of Kob D)
Above Some watches from Kob D's collection (Photo: courtesy of Kob D)

So how can you collect luxury watches without succumbing to addiction? “First, set a budget and stick to it. Second, knowledge is key,” says the Bangkok-based collector who goes by Kob D, adding that it is crucial to take your time before investing and speak to as many experts as possible. While some watch lovers struggle to perform a balancing act, Kob says he has a one in, one out policy; this approach has enabled him to amass a rich collection of vintage Rolex watches over the last ten years. He does, however, jokingly add that he works in Hong Kong to fund his hobby while his family is back home in Thailand.

Traboulsi’s advice is to “be content as you come to realise that you can’t have it all”, adding, “You cannot keep buying, because ultimately it will end up in a drawer.” Like Kob, he urges patience and for buyers to wait for the right time and never rush into a transaction. He also advises against investing in cluster watches: those you buy because they are more accessible or affordable than the ones you really want. It is better, he believes, to rather focus on your philosophy and think about what brings you joy, then wait for the right time to own the piece you really want. “Wait, sacrifice and you’ll get there,” he says. “A part of the journey is to analyse the market and strategise” with other watch enthusiasts, he adds, because sometimes you “may go overboard without realising it, so someone you trust should also be able to talk you out of it”.

One important aspect that nobody talks about is “watch fatigue”, says Traboulsi. “No matter how much you love watches, there comes a time when you have had enough of them.”

Cheung agrees, citing over-exposure and too much social media as among the causes. For Traboulsi, fatigue set in when he realised he was looking at the pieces as transactions; it was at this point that he decided to leave his position in sales and instead started building the watch community for his company instead. “I always say I want to experience the relationship [with brands]; I want to experience the connection; I want to be able to walk into a brand and buy a watch knowing that I know the watchmaker who worked on the watch or the brand executive or the CEO or the owner of the company,” says Traboulsi, who has developed a close relationship with MB&F.

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Some watches from Kob D's collection (Photo: courtesy of Kob D)
Above Some watches from Kob D's collection (Photo: courtesy of Kob D)

There can be a surprising amount of peer pressure among the collecting community, Kob says. He believes some collectors can be convinced to buy pieces they don’t really want, simply because the groups they interact with insist it would be the best move. “Collectors may have [their eyes on] their dream watch, but they sometimes don’t bite the bullet to buy it and [instead] find distractions,” he says, referring to other watches they may be convinced to buy instead of the ones they really want. “Some groups like vintage, some groups like independent watches, some groups like hot watches in the market; if you are friends with all of them, then you lose yourself,” he says. He adds that when he moved to Hong Kong from Thailand, he realised that most people are most interested in independent watch brands, especially given that the city is a hub for new and upcoming watchmakers. “Seeing them on my feed, hearing them talk about it very passionately in person, it got to my head too.” Despite having been tempted by independent watch brands for many years, he’s yet to buy his first piece, as he’s taking his time to understand the segment better. He acknowledges, however, that it is easy to spiral down a rabbit hole, especially for rookie collectors, and restraint is essential. 

All the collectors we spoke to agree that it is important to enjoy the watches you already have before rushing to add more to your collection. After all, the joy of owning a luxury watch lies not just in its acquisition, but in the moments of time it faithfully records. “People make fun of me because I retired twice from this passion and hobby,” says Traboulsi, whose love for watches will “never end”. So the best way to keep the hobby in check is to be content. “When you’re meditating, and you reach a Zen mindset, where you feel like you’ve disconnected from your body: that’s the feeling that you need to reach in terms of watches. You need to be disconnected from everything and be happy with what you have.”

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