Watches and Wonders from April 9 to April 15, 2024 at Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland (WWGF/KEYSTONE/Valentin Flauraud)
Cover Watches and Wonders from April 9 to April 15, 2024 at Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland (Photo: courtesy of WWGF/KEYSTONE/Valentin Flauraud)

The 10 timepieces that make it onto our favourite lists this year

From updates of beloved models to boundary-pushing complications, Watches & Wonders 2024 offered a splendid spread of fine timepieces. The week-long watch trade fair in Geneva featured no less than 54 brands that represent some of the best in the industry today.

As always, it was a haven for enthusiasts and collectors, with a mind-blowing array of innovations and designs that will marvel for years to come; some even added playful touches to cold mechanics. It's hard to whittle down to just 10 out of hundreds, but here they are, in no particular order, Tatler GMT's favourite timepieces at Watches & Wonders 2024.

In case you missed it: Watches and Wonders 2024: Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tudor are among the highlights on Day 4

1. Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon

Tatler Asia
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Above Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon

“In 2022, Grand Seiko introduced its first high-complication watch in the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. Combining a tourbillon with a constant-force mechanism as one unit in a single axis, a first in horology, it deservedly won the Chronometry Prize at GPHG 2022. Setting new standards in efficiency and accuracy—its Caliber 9ST1 was tested for 48 hours each in six positions and at three temperatures, twice as long as industry standard—it came in a platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium case with a black strap from hardy Himeji Kurozan leather. 

This year, the watch retains these design codes, but with a brighter finishing with components in a silver tone. The openworked movement is also set with blue sapphires, a first for Grand Seiko. It is paired with a white strap through natural tanning and hand-coated with layers of white urushi lacquer. The result is a worthy follow-up to a masterpiece.” — Brian Cheong, regional managing editor, Tatler GMT

2. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Tatler Asia
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
Above Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

“The retro vibe of the Golden Ellipse is enhanced with a new chain bracelet in rose gold that fits gracefully on the wrist. Comprising 363 parts with more than 300 links, assembled one by one by hand, it took a long 15 years of development and the outcome is simply divine.” — Brian Cheong

3. Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38

Tatler Asia
Nomos Glashutte Tangente 38 date
Above Nomos Glashutte Tangente 38 Date with Sportbunt colour

“In a hall filled with serious discussions and earnest declarations, Nomos Glashütte was a breath of fresh air with its joyful interpretations of the Tangente Date in 31 colourways. Immersed in a rainbow of colours, I revelled in the diverse palette of hues like a child in a candy store. Endowed with its in-house manual-winding DUW 4101 calibre with a patented date mechanism, the watches are given such whimsical names as Pompadour, Super Sardine and Ariel. Who says a watch can’t just be about having fun?” — Brian Cheong

4. Rolex Perpetual 1908

Tatler Asia
The new Rolex 1908 with a ice blue guilloché dial (Photo: courtesy of Rolex)
Above The new Rolex 1908 with a ice blue guilloché dial (Photo: courtesy of Rolex)

“I was completely captivated by the Rolex Perpetual 1908 when it was launched last year. It outdid itself this year with an ice-blue dial with guilloché pattern, which captures the light in a mesmerising way. The colour not only enhances the visual depth but also adds a cool, serene elegance that contrasts beautifully with the warm brown of the alligator leather strap.” — Amrita Katara, editor, Tatler GMT Hong Kong

5. Hermès Cut

Tatler Asia
Hermès Cut (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Above Hermès Cut (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)

“As a watch editor I have the privilege of viewing many timepieces almost every day for work, but when I first laid eyes on the Hermès Cut, I was immediately struck by its audacious simplicity and geometric elegance. What surprised me even more was how such a straightforward design could leave such a profound impression on me.

Circles and lines are foundational elements in design but Hermès elevates these simple shapes into a powerful style statement. The watch’s case—satin-brushed and polished—exemplifies this blend of simplicity and sophistication. Its clean-cut edges sharply define the watch’s silhouette against the skin. The versatility of the watch is also amplified by its strap options. The metal bracelet with its supple links and alternating finishes mirrors the case design, creating a seamless aesthetic. It also comes with a rubber strap in an array of Hermès signature colours, allowing for personal expression.

In summary, it’s a watch that doesn’t just tell time. It tells the world who you are, and that’s what I love about it.” — Amrita Katara

6. Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

Tatler Asia
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
Above Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)

“Last June, when we launched the Tatler GMT print magazine, I walked into a Cartier boutique to reward myself for all the hard work. My eyes were on the prize, the Santos-Dumont, but I didn’t think that it was ‘me’.

At Watches and Wonders this year, the Santos-Dumont Rewind might just change my mind about the model. I loved how classic and playful it is. The carnelian dial literally turns back time. On the caseback, a precious detail awaits—a signature of Alberto Santos-Dumont.

And if I may be a tad philosophical, it’s a reminder to take a closer look at how we spend our time because every moment can offer a fresh perspective if we’re open to seeing possibilities.” — Amrita Katara

7. Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

Tatler Asia
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

“For the full rundown of this Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch, check out this story dedicated to the watch. But in summary, this creation makes it onto my list because its whimsical way of telling time is simply beautiful and moving. As the dainty butterflies flutter in a circle around the dial to tell the time and the flowers sway slowly—as if blown by a gentle summer breeze—a dreamy scene is painted, evoking feelings of peacefulness and joy.” — Annabel Tan, editor, Tatler GMT Singapore

8. Chanel J12 X-Ray Pink Edition

Tatler Asia
Above Chanel J12 X-Ray Pink Edition

“For the second year running, a Chanel J12 makes it to my top picks from Watches and Wonders (perhaps it is time to finally bite the bullet and buy one). I love this novelty for a simple reason: it’s pink. The maison has never been afraid to have fun and fashionable takes on its haute horlogerie pieces and this year, it has dressed the J12 up in a soft pink sapphire crystal case and bracelet with beige gold details and 46 baguette-cut pink sapphires.

The sapphire crystal’s shade of pink was a specific one that Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio director Arnaud Chastaingt wanted, and it was made specially for the maison. Limited to 12 numbered pieces, the J12 X-Ray Pink Edition watch is not just a pretty face; it is powered by the Calibre 3.1 manual-winding manufacture movement.” — Annabel Tan

9. Baume and Mercier Riviera Baumatic Acier-Titane

Tatler Asia
Above Baume and Mercier Riviera Baumatic Acier-Titane

“As someone who aspires to the French Riviera lifestyle, I can always appreciate a Baume and Mercier Riviera Collection watch. The Swiss luxury watchmaker unveiled several new models this year, all paying tribute to the various facets of the famous Mediterranean coastline that inspired them by showcasing the brand’s design savoir-faire and watchmaking expertise.

My favourite of the collection’s novelties is the Riviera Baumatic Acier-Titane, which embodies the brightest time of the day in the French Riviera—around 2pm—when the sun warms the peaks of the Riviera with its glow. This is reflected in the gorgeous smoked blue sapphire crystal dial with transparent Riviera wave decor, housed in the distinctive 42mm dodecagonal sandblasted steel case with blue PVD treatment and a sandblasted titanium bezel with grey PVD treatment.” — Annabel Tan

10. Tudor Black Bay

Tatler Asia
Tudor Black Bay
Above Tudor Black Bay

“While most are churning out increasingly sophisticated innovations, Tudor remains consistent with its focus on making a simple, good watch. The new Black Bay is beautifully designed and completely on-brand, boosted with COSC and Metas certifications. And it remains reasonably priced, which will undoubtedly attract a large number of new fans into its fold.” — Adrien Choux, director, Tatler GMT