Cover Founders and creative directors Jeanette Madsen (left) and Thora Valdimars

Rotate Birger Christensen, the rising Scandinavian label that was featured in ‘Emily in Paris’, is showing the world that daring style, retail success and sustainability can co-exist

No one could have foreseen that an influencer-led capsule collection would become one of the fastest-growing brands globally, especially when the whole industry was up against the pandemic and parties were on pause. Scandinavian influencers, stylists and former fashion editors Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Madsen were approached by Danish retailer Birger Christensen in 2018 to work on a collaboration that was meant to last one year. Five years on, Rotate Birger Christensen is available in 40 countries and stocked at 450 retailers including Net-a-Porter, Mytheresa, Printemps and Lane Crawford; global sales increased by 75 per cent from 2021 to 2022, according to Vogue Business.

“We first launched the brand in the tiniest venue with the tiniest audience, and progressively our show has grown,” Valdimars and Madsen tell Tatler by email. “Our past two shows have taken place at the Bella Arena, Copenhagen’s largest event space, where we hosted up to 600 guests at the show. It’s really exciting and humbling to see this journey.”

 

As editors at fashion magazine Costume Denmark, Valdimars and Madsen were frequently captured by street photographers during fashion weeks. People paid attention. “It was through our own use of social media that we were noticed by the Birger Christensen Collective, and how we started to gain recognition in the industry,” the duo explain. At the time of writing, a trio of Instagram accounts represents Rotate’s look-good, feel-good ethos: Madsen and Valdimars have 341,000 and 122,000 followers respectively, while 297,000 follow the brand’s account. As digital natives, their online presence is a crucial part of their approach. For the spring-summer 2023 runway show, Rotate debuted an AR try-on filter via Snapchat, followed by the release of its first series of NFTs on digital fashion marketplace The Dematerialised. Next, the brand plans to expand its community on platforms including TikTok and South Korean metaverse Ifland.

In case you missed it: Paris Hilton launches metaverse dating experience in The Sandbox

Rotate is a reflection of the two women’s personal style, but also of their relationship. “We worked very closely together at the magazine, always travelling and shooting editorials, which quickly made us the best of friends,” the duo tell us. “We learnt to cooperate and coordinate our ideas and differences, and realised we were a great team—moving ahead with Rotate was a no-brainer.”

The brand also depends heavily on its community of supporters and fans. In the beginning, Valdimars and Madsen gave their influencer friends Rotate pieces, which would then appear on social media; the new brand would trend when mega influencers such as Leonie Hanne and Chriselle Lim posed in the statement floral ruched-sleeved mini-dresses. “We often find the most inspiration from the women closest to us. Our friends and family act as our best sources of inspiration. We are surrounded by strong women who are not afraid to embrace their own style and path through life,” the pair say. “To us, this is the ultimate source of inspiration, and we try to translate this into our collections, by creating something for everyone.”

Read more: How 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo celebrates love and women through design

Tatler Asia
Above Lily Collins wears a Rotate dress in Emily in Paris season 2 (Photo: Netflix)
Tatler Asia
Above Heart Evangelista wears a Rotate dress (Photo: Instagram/@rotatebirgerchristensen)

The average Scandinavian fashion moodboard might be filled with pastel colours, gingham or oversized silhouettes; the Rotate customer is not the typical “Scandi girl”, but the type of woman who wants a little extra: bigger, shorter, longer than normal. “Having worked together as fashion editors, we bonded over the gaps in our own wardrobes,” Valdimars and Madsen say, “and how we both had a need for bold, sexy, exciting pieces that would easily take you from day tonight.”

The brand quickly became a favourite both for the Cool Girl look and of costume designer Patricia Field, who has chosen it for Lily Collins—she picked a show-stopping Rotate bow party dress for the actress’s role in Emily in Paris. Libby Page, market director of Net-a-Porter, says, “The brand’s bold, glamorous aesthetic that speaks directly to Scandinavian style caught our attention soon after its launch in 2018. Not to mention their collections balance commercial sensibility, a creative air and intuitive wearability.”

Tatler Asia
Above Rotate spring-summer 2023 collection (Photo: Rotate)
Tatler Asia
Above Rotate spring-summer 2023 collection (Photo: Rotate)

Copenhagen-based Rotate has become a textbook example of finding a balance between high- fashion aesthetic, affordability and environmental responsibility. Scandinavia has become increasingly known for its efforts to reduce the fashion industry’s enormous impact on the planet, and Rotate is keeping up.

“Sustainability has been top of mind since we began our Rotate journey,” the founders tell us, “and once the brand started to grow, so did our knowledge and dedicated to the cause.” For example, Rotate Sunday, a popular loungewear line launched during the pandemic, only uses certified natural fibres, with a focus on GOTS cotton (that which meets the Global Organic Textile Standard); the main collections use certified recycled polymer fibre; the brand also minimises the use of harmful chemicals when it comes to product development. Rotate also works with a small number of suppliers that operate according to the brand’s code of conduct in terms of ethical and responsible production, and carries out audits conducted by third-party companies for social compliance.

arrow left arrow left
arrow right arrow right
Photo 1 of 6 Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)
Photo 2 of 6 Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)
Photo 3 of 6 Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)
Photo 4 of 6 Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)
Photo 5 of 6 Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)
Photo 6 of 6 Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)

Now that we are officially in the partywear boom era, this go-to brand for everyday glamour is only set to get bigger. Rotate closed Copenhagen Fashion Week SS23 with a show filled with Nineties and early Noughties styles—from sheer layering, slip dresses and slinky satin miniskirts to vivid colours and denim accents, with a finale of models dancing in red latex looks.

The duo also introduced the Icons Collection last year, featuring 11 reworked versions of original popular designs, and celebrated with two parties in London and Milan. “Following some years where travelling has not been possible, it was a treat to be able to visit some of our dear friends around the world, raise a glass of champagne with them and dance until our feet hurt,” Valdimars and Madsen say. “We are so grateful to have the support of such an amazing community and we hope that in this new year, we can just continue to connect and re-connect as our network expands around the world.”

Tatler Asia
Above Rotate spring-summer 2023 show (Photo: Rotate)

Topics