Quiet luxury is nothing new. In fact, it’s been around for at least a century—which is how long Hermès has been offering its well-crafted handbags. Before the French brand’s iconic Birkin bag became as fetishised as it is today, it was the accessory of choice for those—including the Olsen twins—who didn’t necessarily want to flaunt their wealth. In fact, in the 2010s, both sisters famously toted around a beat-up black Hermès Kelly bag. In recent years, though, Mary-Kate has traded it for the more refined (and more expensive) Hermès Sellier Kelly bag in shiny black niloticus crocodile leather. At a Sotheby’s auction in 2020, the bag was estimated to fetch between US$35,000 and US$45,000.

You could draw a Venn diagram of women who wear The Row and Philophiles (loyal customers of Céline when it was helmed by British designer Phoebe Philo)—and you’ll find that there is a sizeable intersection. The Olsen twins are right in the middle of it all. Old Céline, as Philo’s tenure at the brand has come to be known, offered sophisticated, thoughtful and modern clothing that has proven its staying power in many women’s wardrobes. Mary-Kate, for example, has frequently been spotted in a floral embroidered coat from the brand’s fall/winter 2015 collection, as well as a pair of bright red python leather boots.

Read more: Phoebe Philo is launching her new fashion brand in September

In the accessories department, the Olsens are big on Bottega Veneta—even before Daniel Lee took over the Italian luxury brand. The brand’s former creative director, Tomas Maier, understood the power of quiet luxury and prioritised timeless design and excellent craftsmanship in his collections. Maier’s tenure at Bottega Veneta amassed its own dedicated following that may be at odds with the influencers and celebrities that are associated with the brand today. Ashley Olsen, a part of the former group, often punctuated her outfits with the label’s woven leather bags and stylish pumps.

The designs of Martin Margiela are a big source of inspiration for the Olsen twins, and that much was confirmed when they offered up their personal vintage fashion collection for sale. The Cut also reported that the ideation process of The Row began with “garments by Martin Margiela (especially from his years at Hermès)”. Looking beyond the hype of Tabi boots, Ashley is particularly fond of the Belgian designer’s knits, which she reached for when creating her signature elegant, slouchy look that would later be seen in The Row’s designs.

As mentioned, the Olsen twins’ personal vintage collection revealed their penchant for certain fashion brands. That includes a handful of esteemed Japanese labels, like Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. The twins, known for their great tastes in coats, owned plenty of those made by Issey Miyake, who created clothes imbued with a sense of lightness and ease and were meant to inspire delight. That much was achieved with Mary-Kate Olsen graced the 2013 CFDA Awards wearing a black Issey Miyake pleated spiral dress from the ‘90s.

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