Cover Ashish Gupta’s spring-summer 2024 show was campy, colourful and inclusive (Photo: Getty Images)

From Irish-Cantonese designer Simone Rocha to Hong Kong’s Kay Kwok, these designers impressed with their stunning spring-summer 2024 collections

London Fashion Week, which took place from September 15 to 19, saw nearly 30 Asian designers showcase their spring-summer 2024 collections. Some—like Simone Rocha, whose family has roots in Hong Kong, and Kay Kwok, who hails from our city—have already been reaching new career heights for a while now: Rocha has been invited as the next guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier’s label, and the Kwok has created a custom look for Beyoncé for her Renaissance Tour. And, of course, they were among the Asian designers who ruled this London Fashion Week by bringing flair and fun to the runway. Let’s take a look at five such standout designers and what made their shows unique.

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1. Harri

After debuting on London Fashion Week last year with swollen latex balloon pants, Indian designer Harri brought back his signature inflatable latex looks to the runway, this time experimenting with texture and movement to create delicate draping styles using rubber. He also used shantung silk and other fabrics with sheen to make crumpled tailored jackets, trousers, shorts and accessories.

2. Kwk by Kay Kwok

Hong Kong-born designer Kay Kwok gave a nod to futuristic fashion through an avant-garde collection of sculptural outfits in a riot of colours like electric green and bold red. The designer also added alien-like details such as antennas on the models, bringing an unapologetically bold and experimental showcase on the runway.

3. Susan Fang

Sheer fabrics, tiers of ruffles and 3D-printed floral eyewear and accessories made up the bulk of Chinese designer Susan Fang’s AI-inspired collection. Fang’s intention was to explore the possibility of a spiritual connection between AI and humans, and she depicted this through ethereal, flowy gowns, huge wings made of kites and futuristic eyewear.

4. Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha has always had bows and other such romantic details at the heart of her brand, and this season’s collection continued to demonstrate her creative application of these motifs. From wedding cake-esque gowns in ivory and shift dresses in pink satin to 3D floral roses on windbreakers and big bows on trench coats, the Chinese-Irish designer continues to explore and embrace modern femininity in her creations.

5. Ashish Gupta

Indian designer Ashish Gupta brought glamour, fun and inclusivity to his runway, with models of diverse ages and backgrounds. The collection itself was as joyous as it was whimsical. Think sequined skirts, fishnet dresses, fringed gowns and sparkling sari, complete with campy accessories that included feather headdresses and pineapples for a dash of fun. 

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