Valentino put a luxury twist on denim, a streetwear staple, at Paris Couture Week. Model Kaia Gerber opened the show at Château de Chantilly in what looked like a white shirt and jeans that, upon closer inspection, reveal the trousers to be made of a silk gazaar fabric embellished entirely with beads in shades of blue and brown, and with brown stitching, to mimic the texture of denim.

Viktor & Rolf celebrated its 30th anniversary by presenting the most exaggerated, tongue-in-cheek swimwear on the haute couture runway.

One-pieces were emblazoned with 3D printed phrases such as “No” and “I wish you well” that emerged from the designs in unexpected ways, while bikinis took a futuristic turn with layering that created the impression that the pieces are hovering over the model’s body.

Rahul Mishra’s 2023 fall/winter couture collection—titled We, The People—paid homage to the atelier’s craftspeople who are behind the intricately crafted and embellished outfits on the runway.

At first glance, Mishra’s gowns, jackets and lehengas featured heavily embroidered motifs that reflected the flora and fauna of India, but hidden in plain sight among the nature-inspired embellishments were embroidered images of tailors and artisans who crafted the pieces walking down the runway. Not only was it an unexpected detail, but it was also a touching homage to the behind-the-scenes workers who make haute couture happen.

Known for upholding the experimental spirit of haute couture through its creations, Schiaparelli has long been a highlight on the couture calendar. This year too, the luxury brand didn’t disappoint. Like founder Elsa Schiaparelli who drew inspiration from painters, creative director Daniel Roseberry was influenced by French artist Yves Klein whose paintings are synonymous with a signature shade of blue. Roseberry used this famous hue on not only the clothes but also the make-up, painting the colour onto models’ faces and bodies to create an ethereal effect.

Julien Dossena, creative director at Paco Rabanne, was the guest designer for the 2023 fall/winter collection at Jean Paul Gaultier, and he expertly merged elements of Rabanne’s signature metalwork and chainmail with the cheeky undertones often seen at Gaultier. The result was a new take on the sheer dress: in addition to layering transparent fabric over a mesh bodysuit, Dossena placed beaded embroidery near the groin area on the dress to insinuate the appearance of pubic hair, earning many a double take from the audience.

NOW READ

Dior pays homage to Greek goddesses with its 2023 fall/winter collection at Paris Couture Week

Chanel celebrates French girl style in its haute couture fall/winter 2023 collection

Real-life Barbie: 7 times Margot Robbie’s outfits paid tribute to the Mattel doll during her press tour