Cover From left: 16Arlington spring-summer 2023 collection, designer Marco Capaldo

The founder and creative director of every it girl’s favourite brand of the moment talks love, inspirations—and feel-good fashion

You can tell a brand is doing exceptionally well when celebrities from Amal Clooney to Lady Gaga sport its sequinned dresses on red carpets; closer to home, fashionistas have been spotted wearing its creations at parties across Asia. In just five short years, 16Arlington has become the go-to brand for occasion dressing.

Partners both in life and work, Marco Capaldo, a London-born and bred Italian, and Federica “Kikka” Cavenati, an Italian student, founded the brand after they graduated from the London outpost of fashion college Istituto Marangoni in 2017. “It was a real passion project between the pair of us; it was a combination of our personal and design aesthetics,” Capaldo tells Tatler over video call. “What came with that was a brand that really empowered women, and was all about feeling. It was something that we were creating to make the wearer feel like the best version of herself.” The label name came from the address of the flat they shared at the time, where friends would come to hang out but also try on the duo’s co-designed pieces.

Read more: Robert Wun on the inspiration behind his Haute Couture Week debut

Tatler Asia
Above Japanese-British singer-songwriter Rina Sawayama in 16Arlington (Photo: Instagram/@16arlington)
Tatler Asia
Above American model Hailey Bieber in 16Arlington (Photo: Instagram/@16arlington)

Capaldo and Cavenati shared a rare compatibility in which their visions and aesthetics found a middle ground: a great marriage of raw elegance, unapologetic glamour and powerful silhouettes. People would recognise the brand from recurring elements including elaborate feathers, liquid sequins and risqué cut-outs. “Those textures have become rooted in a way as part of the DNA of the brand,”
says Capaldo. “But we really push every season to reinvent, reimagine and restrict how we execute those pieces, whether [it’s that] one season we’re changing it from an ostrich to a marabou or layering it under netting, there’s a constant evolvement.”

 

Tatler Asia
Above American model Ashley Graham in 16Arlington (Photo: Instagram/@16arlington)
Tatler Asia
Above American singer actress Selena Gomez in 16Arlington (Photo: Instagram/@16arlington)

The appeal is real. The label made its London Fashion Week debut in 2020 on Valentine’s Day, cementing its status as a favourite among celebrities, stylists and It girls, while being stocked in e-retailers and boutiques around the globe. But just months before the autumn-winter 2022 show, tragedy struck, with Cavenati suffering a sudden and short illness, and passing away in October 2021 at the age of 28.

A grief-stricken Capaldo dedicated the whole collection and show to her, celebrating her legacy and wit in every item and presentation. “Kikka was such a big part of the brand in essence. Her memory, her handwriting, her spirit will always live on through what we do,” Capaldo says. “Besides being designers together, we were also partners in life for ten years—her vision is embedded in my mindset. And even designing alone, I still in a way design with her because I can hear her, and her sensibility is still very much present.”

Tatler Asia
Above Designer Marco Capaldo

Titled Tears, the collection is a poignant tribute to the co-founder. “I always refer to that collection as a love letter to Kikka,” Capaldo explains. Bringing a ray of light into the darkness, Capaldo tapped an airy and angelic approach both in presentation and design. It featured feather-trimmed, sequinned separates, chocolate leather miniskirts, lilac grey blazers, dresses adorned with Swarovski crystals shining like teardrops, and funky marabou bucket hats. The season also marked the brand’s first foray into shoes and bags––a leather hobo bag named Kikka is a highlight of the range. As American actor, writer and a close friend of the house
Lena Dunham wrote in the show notes: “Marco loved and appreciated every fibre of Kikka as an artist and a woman, and that is one of the central ways she lives on.”

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Photo 1 of 5 16Arlington autumn-winter 2022 collection
Photo 2 of 5 16Arlington autumn-winter 2022 collection
Photo 3 of 5 16Arlington autumn-winter 2022 collection
Photo 4 of 5 16Arlington autumn-winter 2022 collection
Photo 5 of 5 16Arlington autumn-winter 2022 collection
Tatler Asia
Above 16Arlington autumn-winter 2022 collection

The spring-summer 2023 collection, the second realised by Capaldo alone, is created for unforgettable women. “It’s me finding my feet as a designer alone, but also ensuring that Kikka’s presence is there,” says Capaldo. A sea of sharply tailored sparkling dresses, strong-shouldered satin and leather ensembles, strapless and mini silhouettes that reminded audiences of Nineties minimalism strolled down the corridors of London’s Army Reserve Centre. Inevitably, 16Arlington is entering a new chapter, led by Capaldo and always honouring Cavenati. Pieces include women’s seasonal ready-to-wear, bridal collections and a permanent capsule named The Infinites, where electrifying occasion-wear meets timeless staples.

 

Tatler Asia
Above Backstage at 16Arlington spring-summer 2023 show
Tatler Asia
Above Backstage at 16Arlington spring-summer 2023 show

“There are lots of exciting things that we are now working towards in terms of brand image,” Capaldo tells Tatler. “Our aim is just to
keep presenting collections that resonate with our women and to continue to feel inspired by the community that surrounds us.” Recently, 16Arlington worked with British retailer Matchesfashion on an exclusive capsule for the festive season. “What’s exciting about working with Matchesfashion is that they have such an incredible language as a brand themselves. It’s always exciting to create something that is not only so signature to us as a brand, but it’s almost tailored to their women. I think that translation is always an interesting process.”

He also continues to lean on and draw inspiration from the women in his life, even in Cavenati’s absence, and works with a predominantly female team. “It’s so inspiring walking into a studio with so many personalities and individual styles: the extended community that lives around the brand and orbits the brand outside of the studio, the creatives, models, editors ... a lot of whom have become dear friends,” he says.

Tatler Asia
Above 16Arlington spring-summer 2023 show
Tatler Asia
Above 16Arlington, exclusive for Matchesfashion

One of the brand’s ambitions is to recognise women and create fashion that makes them feel good about themselves. One of the star pieces, the Solaria dress, is an excellent example of how the same item has appeal for individuals of different body types and personalities, and so creates community.

While Capaldo admits the idea of seeing his creations on the red carpet is exhilarating, “There’s something about seeing them on real woman in the real world—that’s something that Kikka and I always got really excited about.” Cavenati may no longer be physically present, but Capaldo is set on ensuring that her presence continues to be felt at 16Arlington, a reflection of his love and respect.

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