Cover Inside Bar Bellustar hangs Shinji Ohmaki's Gravity and Grace: Mare Foecunditatis

Exploring the city’s robust art scene with Atsuko Ninagawa and Shinji Ohmaki

Where tradition and innovation converge, the most dynamic art scene can be found in the Japanese capital. The city’s juxtaposing slogan “Old Meets New” reflects its artistic landscape, where its rich history resonates alongside strokes of contemporary creativity.

From bespoke art galleries to national art museums, Tokyo is consistently abundant with captivating collections and avant-garde exhibitions. We spoke with the distinguished gallerist Atsuko Ninagawa and acclaimed artist Shinji Ohmaki on what the city has to offer.

Connecting Contemporary Art

Art Week Tokyo launched in 2021 in collaboration with Art Basel, and has since taken place each year in early November. The four-day event bridges together more than 50 venues dispersed throughout the capital, with free shuttle bus service linking all venues.

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Above Atsuko Ninagawa, owner of Take Ninagawa
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Above Acclaimed artist Shinji Ohmaki

The event is co-founded by Atsuko Ninagawa, owner of Take Ninagawa in the affluent neighbourhood of Higashi-Azabu. “Tokyo has a vibrant art scene but language barriers and other factors can make it hard to access,” Ninagawa explains. “Art Week Tokyo opens up the creativity and diversity of art in the city for both local and international audiences alike.”

The event serves as an invaluable educational platform, offering insights in both Japanese and English. Curator-led tours and online artist talks are just a few examples of Art Week Tokyo’s informative content. “We want to encourage broad audiences to actively engage with art, because that is ultimately what gives value to art.” For those looking to elevate their experience, the VIP programme provides access to exclusive previews, private viewings and guided tours.

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Above Gravity and Grace Installation view of the exhibition “Shinji Ohmaki: Interface of Being” The National Art Center, Tokyo, 2023 Photo by Keizo Kioku
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Above The National Art Center, Tokyo

Further, the curated sales platform AWT Focus extends a unique opportunity to see art through the eyes of a guest curator and purchase exhibited work directly through participating galleries. Whether a seasoned collector or an emerging enthusiast, Ninagawa elaborates that “knowing the historical and social contexts for contemporary art can really expand your understanding of the work and its horizons.”

Art as a Culinary Canvas

Food plays an integral part of Japanese culture, with a profound respect for seasonal ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship. The shokunin spirit embodies a relentless dedication to prepare masterpieces, which are in itself exquisite works of art. 

Such artistry is also represented through a sensory experience during Art Week Tokyo—the AWT Bar pop-up took place at the emergence aoyama complex in Minami-Aoyama last year, where guests indulged in canapés by a Michelin-starred chef and expressive cocktails designed by celebrated artists. VIP pass holders were able to explore the exclusive “salon” in the upper level of the venue—usually only accessible to club members—which showcased the exclusive Shirai Collection.

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Above The AWT Bar 2023. © suzuko yamada architects, courtesy Art Week Tokyo.
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Above Inside the members only "salon". Shinro Ohtake, Mushinenoma (Space: Sound of Insects), 2022 © Shinro Ohtake, courtesy of Take Ninagawa, Tokyo. Photo: Masatomo Moriyama

Shinji Ohmaki, renowned for his immersive and boundary-defying artwork, reimagined the creation of the universe in the two-tone martini “Vacuum Fluctuation”. Blavod black vodka and charcoaled Aphrodite Black represent darkness, whilst the fresh grapefruit juice and clear jelly depict light. Through the mixology of the duality, this drinkable art expresses the sense of the two states converging to form a new world.

The fusion of food and art is a quietly unfolding trend—Lavender Opener Chair in Arakawa-ku, recommended by Ninagawa, is a gallery that showcases artwork by rising contemporary artists. It operates alongside a casual dining room “Tohmei”, where visitors are able to savour Yamagata-inspired comfort food. 3110NZ by LDH kitchen is another example, a collaborative project by the nearly-impossible-to-book Sushi Saito and NANZUKA contemporary art gallery.

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Above Shinji Ohmaki, Vacuum Fluctuation, original cocktail produced for the AWT Bar 2023. Courtesy Art Week Tokyo

Transcendent Experience of Time

Inside Bar Bellustar, located on the 45th floor of TOKYU KABUKICHO TOWER that opened earlier last year in Shinjuku with impressive skyline views, hangs an installation by Ohmaki. “Gravity and Grace: Mare Foecunditatis (The Sea of Fertility)” is a 1.5 metre-diameter hollow iron sphere suspended from the ceiling, with intricate motifs carved on its surface. Throughout the evening, light gleams through, projecting gently transitioning silhouettes onto its surroundings and bathing the atmosphere with a serene blue glow.

The outlines are inspired by water patterns from a collection of books drawn in the Edo period (before the industrialisation, the now-populated district of Shinjuku was once a yusuichi, a source of natural spring water). These detailed designs are integrated with outlines of architecture and scenery seen throughout the ward. The evolving shapes paint its history onto the walls, creating an ethereal ambience for guests that transcends time. A white 2.5 metre-diameter iteration titled “Gravity and Grace: Lucidus (Lucida)” is exhibited above Restaurant Bellustar next door, similarly illustrating Tokyo’s heritage.

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Above Bar Bellustar, located on the 45th floor of TOKYU KABUKICHO TOWER
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Above Restaurant Bellustar

Many of Ohmaki’s works explore time, space and perspectives. At his solo exhibition at The National Art Center, Tokyo (which took place between November and December last year), an eight metre-high vessel enveloped the room with light and darkness akin to the rhythm of the sun with primordial sensation. “I like to experience time,” he explains. “When I immerse myself in an environment, I find a unique fascination in the thought of someone else, in the past, sharing the same seconds and breaths in this very place.”

In Tokyo, Ohmaki frequently wanders the historic streets of Nezu and Ueno, which he describes as “sentimental, as if time has stopped”. From the multi-century year old sake store to the generational tofu restaurant, the neighbourhood’s historic charm echoes like zankyou—a gentle resonance that reverberates through its timeless stories.

“Here, it feels as though I am savouring time,” he says. “This exploration in itself is priceless, an art that money cannot buy”.

Sponsored by Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau, the organisation behind Tokyo’s official luxury travel guide Tokyo Timeless Temptations.