Chefs and industry insiders share their favourite restaurants and wine bars in some of the most underrated food cities around the world

In certain circles, travelling for food has long meant collecting Michelin stars rather than connecting with local culture. But a growing number of travellers are seeking out dynamic dining scenes that show off native ingredients, celebrate diversity and let them experience the city like a local.

From foraged delicacies in busy Berlin, to a vibrant private dining experience in an apartment in Mexico City, the following destinations are on the radar of the most discerning diners—naturally, Tatler approves.

See also: 20 of the world’s most famous food markets

Berlin, Germany

Berlin’s reputation as a hot dining destination is picking up speed faster than a beat at Berghain, thanks to an eclectic mix of street food, casual-cool eateries, vegan kitchens and fine dining.

There’s an emphasis on ingredients sourced from local farmers and foragers, like at the innovative Lode & Stijn, helmed by chef Lode van Zuylen who “strictly rejects factory farming”; or the cult-favourite bistro Mrs Robinson’s, whose menu spells it out loud and clear for diners: “F**k industrial agriculture; farm regeneratively or die.”

But according to Jeff Claudio—a chef who moved to Berlin from Hong Kong, where he worked as sous chef at Belon then at Yardbird—Berlin’s magic lies in its hidden gems. Namely restaurants that celebrate the city’s richly multicultural population. Berliners have even coined a term for it: “Multikulti”, short for multikulturell (multicultural). It’s a term that denotes the city’s accepting attitude towards the different cultures and religions that make up modern-day Berlin.

Claudio recommends Adana Grillhaus, a classic Turkish ocakbasi where meat, vegetables and breads are grilled over a central charcoal pit. The food, he says, “tells a story about the city of Berlin, its Turkish community, and how great and authentic the motherland food is here”. Another cherished locale is Chungking Noodles. “[It’s] one of my all-time favourite spots. A super delicious and traditional take on Chongqing-style noodles, made by the chilli queen, [Shanghainese chef] Ash Lee.”

Bali, Indonesia

Once known for Instagrammable brunch plates and açai bowls, Bali’s food scene has undergone an incredible transformation in recent years to become one of the most exciting and sophisticated in Asia. This is thanks in large part to a growing focus on using locally farmed seasonal produce, while celebrating and supporting the Balinese community.

Ijen at Desa Potato Head is a prime example. An impressive 100 per cent of its ingredients are locally sourced, including fish caught daily using a hand-reeling method, and fruits and vegetables grown by farmers who work closely with the restaurant. Meanwhile, under the restaurant’s zero-waste philosophy, all food waste is sent to its composting site or fed to pigs at nearby farms.

Indonesian restaurant Ulekan delivers an elevated experience of the traditional warung—a typical small, family-run eatery—using organic Bali-grown ingredients and vetoing MSG, additives or palm oil.

See also: Potato Head Founder Ronald Akili Talks Sustainability, Hope and Pride of Place

The Island of the Gods has also seen a surge of sleek modern restaurants, wine bars and artisanal goods. At Mason, a popular Mediterranean restaurant, co-owner and chef Benjamin Cross makes charcuterie, cheese and sourdough in-house, served alongside wood-fired premium meats, seafood and locally sourced vegetables.

When he’s not cooking himself, Cross heads to Mosto, Indonesia’s first natural wine bar, and Fed by Made. “Made is a young Balinese chef that has lived between Bali and Melbourne,” says Cross. “He incorporates his experiences [in both destinations] to create a super tasty set menu. This place never disappoints. It’s low-key, good vibes and one of the best-value restaurants in Bali.”

See also: The Local Edit: Mason Chef & Co-Owner Benjamin Cross's Guide to Bali

Mexico City, Mexico

Mexico City has made a name for itself as a favourite destination among some of the world’s top chefs, and it’s easy to see why. It’s an absolute beast of a city with a dynamic food scene that captures the vibrant flavours, spirit and history of Mexico.

For a long time, the country’s traditional produce was under threat as farmers contended with resource constraints, climate change and competition from monocrop farms. In response, many chefs have stood in solidarity with local farmers to champion traditional ingredients and cultivate a sense of pride. They include Enrique Olvera, the chef at esteemed fine-dining restaurant Pujol, who was featured in Netflix’s Chef’s Table series, and chef Mercedes Bernal of the acclaimed Meroma.

DJ and musician Yasmin Shahmir—better known simply as Yasmin—moved to Mexico City from London a few years ago after falling under its spell. She’s also the founder of Trippin World, an independent online travel platform powered by a glocal community of creatives, with a focus on niche subcultures around the world.

For Shahmir, exploring Mexico City’s dining scene has played an important role in helping her feel connected to her newly-adopted home. One of her go-tos is Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre by chef Jesus Tornés, who prepares all of his dishes from scratch using pre-Hispanic—that is, from the millennia before Columbus sailed the ocean blue—cooking techniques and ingredients from his family’s farm in Guerrero, about five hours’ drive south of Mexico City. “There’s no menu here. Jesus will ask you what you do [or] don’t eat and the kitchen will keep sending you delicious and exciting plates until you tell them you’re full,” says Shahmir.

For an intimate dining experience in the Mexican capital, she recommends Esquina Común. Helmed by chef Ana Dolores, it’s only open at weekends and reservations are made solely via Instagram messaging. “Her plates are pure magic, a mash-up of influences from Mexican to Mediterranean, and the colours and flavours are on point,” says Shahmir. “The restaurant itself is set in an actual apartment filled with antique furniture and decor. You truly feel like you’ve been welcomed into Ana’s home.”

See also: The Local Edit: Yasmin's Guide to Mexico City

Sydney, Australia

Melbourne has long hogged the spotlight as Australia’s top dining destination. But it seems many travellers have been sleeping on Sydney and greater New South Wales, which is enjoying a restaurant explosion following the Covid-19 pandemic.

The range in Sydney is wide. From humble, heart-warming eateries like Lankan Filling Station, a casual spot serving authentic Sri Lankan cuisine in the CBD, to flirty mid-range wine bars like 10 William Street that pair Australia’s much-loved export with creative bites, and some fabulous upscale dining experiences.

Sydneysider Jowett Yu, who was at the helm of Hong Kong hotspot Ho Lee Fook before returning to his hometown, suggests Ester for “one of the most uniquely Australian restaurants in town”, and contemporary bistro Continental Deli for “great cocktails in an intimate setting”.

There’s also a surge of restaurants in New South Wales owned by First Nations people that honour native ingredients and Australian Aboriginal traditions, including Karkalla in Byron Bay, where proud Bundjalung woman Mindy Woods introduces diners to seasonal local produce like warrigal greens, Geraldton wax, wild native hibiscus, lemon myrtle and mountain pepper.

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