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Travel Temples, Ryokans And Tombstones: A Slow Travel Guide To Kyoto, Japan

Temples, Ryokans And Tombstones: A Slow Travel Guide To Kyoto, Japan

The winding paths leading up to temples as well as the city’s backstreets are prime spots for a quintessential photograph of Kyoto
By Cheryl Chan, Kissa Castañeda, Chloe Pek
July 13, 2019
Take the road less travelled and immerse yourself in spirituality in Kyoto—a perfect antidote to the hectic pace of modern life

If Tokyo is the modern beating heart of Japan, Kyoto is its old and beautiful soul. It undeniably holds court when it comes to history and tradition and is probably the best place to acquaint yourself in Japan’s unique cultural practices, whether it is the ritual behind a tea ceremony or the intricacies of wearing a kimono. There are multiple standouts on Kyoto’s tourist trail—the geisha district of Gion, the ethereal Kiyomizu temple and the iconic torii gates at the Fushimi Inari shrine immediately come to mind. It is also revered for its mastery of kaiseki, bustling coffee scene and the abundance of artisanal crafts such as lacquer and porcelain.

Kinkaku-ji Temple
The Kinkakuji temple is a staple on the tourist trail but there are plenty of other smaller temples and shrines to visit in Kyoto (Photo: 123rf)

With so much to do in the city itself, it is not surprising that most visitors choose to spend their time taking in everything in the city centre. But in order to experience Kyoto’s true spirit, seasoned travellers should head to its quieter locales for mindful excursions that soothe the mind, body and soul. Our pick is Koyasan, an ancient village in the Wakayama Prefecture, that offers a deeper immersion into Japan’s sacred practices.

A Pilgrimage to Koyasan

There are a few ways to get to this mountainous area, but nothing beats taking a 30-minute helicopter ride. Not only is it the fastest route, the stunning bird's-eye view of the city below is well worth the nerves; it also offers a modern counterpoint to what awaits at Koyasan. As the birthplace of Shingon Buddhism, it is home to over 100 temples and it is quite common to see monks going about their day here.

Live as the monks do with an overnight stay at temples or visit the serene Kinkaku-ji and Kongōbu-ji and relish the joy of simple things
Live as the monks do with an overnight stay at temples at Koyasan (Photo: 123rf)
With over 10,000 eternally lit lanterns, Torodo Hall, the main place of worship at Okunoin cemetery, is a stunning sight to behold
With over 10,000 eternally lit lanterns, Torodo Hall, the main place of worship at Okunoin cemetery, is a stunning sight to behold (Photo: 123rf)

A popular pilgrimage destination for devout Buddhists and tourists alike, many make the journey to this temple settlement to experience a monk’s lifestyle—ourselves included. Our temple of choice? Souji-in, an elegant setting with both Japanese-and western-style rooms, as well as creature comforts including air conditioning and a lift.

In between morning prayers and meditation sessions, make sure to book a kaiseki meal in the temple’s vegetarian restaurant. It is certainly a worthy treat for those early morning prayer calls. Food lovers should also bookmark Kadohama Gomatofu Sohompo, Japan’s most famous sesame tofu restaurant, to sample this Koyasan speciality.

See also: 7 Wonders Of The World To See Before They Disappear

Interesting, customised tombstones dot Okunoin
Interesting, customised tombstones dot Okunoin (Photo: 123rf)

Tombstone Tourism At Okunoin

One of the highlights of the village is Okunoin, Japan’s largest and most sacred cemetery. Similar to Los Angeles’ Hollywood Forever Cemetery or Paris’ Père Lachaise Cemetery, Okunoin is the final resting place of influential figures, including religious leaders, politicians, samurai clans, celebrities and prominent businessmen.

The presence of these figures made an otherwise eerie experience an enjoyable one, as we saw customised tombstones and structures erected near their burial places. We spotted a coffee cup, a rocket ship and even a pufferfish tombstone that belonged to a famous fugu chef buried there. Tombstone tourism may not be top of mind when visiting Kyoto, but it adds an unexpected flavour to the quintessential Kyoto itinerary.

Hoshinoya Kyoto is nestled in the verdant valley of Arashiyama, once a nobles retreat (Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya)
Hoshinoya Kyoto is nestled in the verdant valley of Arashiyama, once a nobles retreat (Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya)

A Regal Retreat In Arashiyama

One of the best ways to truly take it slow is to experience a ryokan, a traditional Japanese hotel. Our pick? Hoshinoya Kyoto in Arashiyama, a short train ride away from the city centre. To call Hoshinoya Kyoto a luxury ryokan would be accurate, but it is also an under‑representation of what awaits at this truly special place.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the hotel transcends from being merely a home for the night to becoming a destination in itself. A lot of it has to do with its magnificent location. Nestled in the pristine surrounds of Arashiyama—a protected area best known for its towering bamboo forest—Hoshinoya Kyoto sits on a quiet riverbank, unchanged since the Heian era (794-1185) when it was the go-to retreat for Japanese nobles.

A short cruise on the Oi river brings you to Hoshinoya Kyoto (Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya)
A short cruise on the Oi river brings you to Hoshinoya Kyoto (Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya)
A stay at Hoshinoya Kyoto allows one to immerse in Japanese hospitality (Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya)
A stay at Hoshinoya Kyoto allows one to immerse in Japanese hospitality (Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya)

Few are able to match the hotel’s grand welcome, which requires guests to board a black wooden boat and cruise down the Oi River. The 15-minute sail immediately puts one on a different rhythm—slower, calmer, and ready to be enveloped in serenity. Stepping into hotel is like entering a small, traditional village and feels like a microcosm of Kyoto.

The restored century-old property was intelligently reimagined—shoji screens and tatami mats meet modern touches, and the custom‑made furniture are positioned to face the picture windows that frame the verdant view. This exquisite panorama is best appreciated when enjoying the Japanese breakfast brought to your room, a signature Hoshinoya touch. No stay at the hotel is complete without engaging in activities, be it learning about traditional incense ceremony or indulging in one of Kyoto’s best expressions of kaiseki at its in-house restaurant.

See also: 3 Ancient Cities To Visit In Myanmar

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A peek into Aman Kyoto, opening on November 2019 (Photo courtesy of Aman)
The grounds were once part of an artistic community and close to Kyoto's UNESCO Heritage sites (Photo courtesy of Aman)
The grounds were once part of an artistic community and close to Kyoto's UNESCO Heritage sites (Photo courtesy of Aman)

A Spiritual Stay In An Artistic Locale

If a city-centre luxury ryokan is what you're after, then Aman Kyoto, set to open on November 2019, is our top pick. The hospitality brand’s third property in Japan, Aman Kyoto is hidden away in a secret garden at the foot of the mountain of Hidari Daimonji, north of Kyoto. The 80‑acre property in the Takagamine district is steeped in culture and heritage, and located just a stone’s throw away from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kinkaku-ji Temple.

The forested grounds were once part of an artistic community that gave rise to the historic Rinpa school of painting in 17th-century Kyoto, and eight acres of manicured gardens belonged to one of Japan’s most respected obi (the ornamental sash for a traditional Japanese kimono) collectors, who had originally planned to build a textile museum within the garden for his collection.


 

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Designed by Kerry Hill Architects, clean lines dominate this new Aman property (Photo courtesy of Aman)

The ethereal landscape, dotted with colourful yama momiji maples and enclosed by a small running stream, now provides the foundation for Aman Kyoto. Designed by Kerry Hill Architects, the resort is a modern reimagining of Japan’s traditional inns, with floor-to-ceiling windows and furniture pieces exclusively designed for the property. In true ryokan fashion, each guest room also boasts ofuro bathtubs made of native hinoki wood.

Of course, no Aman retreat is complete without the Aman Spa, which offers holistic benefits of Japan’s ancient wellness practices. The spa’s extensive menu of treatments taps into the country’s natural apothecary, such as Kyoto green tea, local sake and Kyoto silk cocoon. End with a relaxing soak in the traditional onsen, filled with local spring water that helps heal weary travellers.

See also: A Food Lover's Guide To Kyoto

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Travel Kyoto Koyasan Arashiyama Hoshinoya Kyoto Aman Kyoto luxury travel

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