The reputable chef is on a mission to showcase the diversity and richness of the country’s cuisine
This past November, Kuala Lumpur-based restaurant Dewakan became the country’s first to be awarded two stars by the Michelin Guide. Its chef-patron is Darren Teoh, a no-nonsense personality who is single-mindedly focused on showcasing the beauty and diversity of his country’s culture through food.
Dewakan is a portmanteau of the Malay words for “God” and “food”, and has, aside from the Michelin stars, been recognised as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Read more: Michelin Guide 2024: Kuala Lumpur and Penang’s stars revealed
Despite the recognition, Teoh doesn’t count the stars or awards as major career milestones he actively seeks to unlock. Instead, the greatest achievement for him and his team is being able to continue pursuing their passion for using local and indigenous ingredients in innovative ways. To do this, they constantly experiment with different ingredients and techniques, which often lead to the creation of dishes that have gained the favour of food critics.
“Although we greatly appreciate receiving recognition from Michelin, earning the star is not our sole objective. Instead, we concentrate on perfecting our craft because it is essential to us. Our restaurant is driven by our love for cooking and creating exceptional dishes,” says Teoh.
Leading the charge in embracing local ingredients
When Teoh first started Dewakan eight years ago, he recalled there hardly being a restaurant that used locally grown ingredients in their dishes. That has since changed, and he says he’s proud to have pioneered the movement.
Embracing local ingredients in its dishes has helped Dewakan address the issue of uncertainty of availability that may come with imported ingredients.
To achieve Dewakan’s diverse menu, Teoh says the team is constantly searching for new ingredients and finding ways to include them in their dishes. “There are many moving parts involved in this process and sometimes, the ability to bring everything together can seem serendipitous.”
“It comes down to having a good product and ensuring that it is executed well.” He points out how having a self-motivated team who are among the best at their craft is key. “Your team needs to be highly skilled and well-coordinated to optimise their full potential.”
Read more: What do the staff at Dewakan, Akar Dining, Mano, and Table & Apron eat before their shift begins?
Finding ingredients that match his expectations of what his dishes have been an exploratory journey, says Teoh. He adds that once they’ve found a unique ingredient to use, it is up to him and his chefs to apply their technical know-how to enhance its flavours. “Certain ingredients don’t react in a way that we are familiar with,” he says. “For example, the Kulim fruit smells like rose garlic, but it’s not. It’s a fruit, garlic is a bulb, and you can’t use them interchangeably. Learning to harness its pungency requires trying multiple methods. That’s one aspect of the exploration that is interesting.”
Creating a dinner to remember
Running a restaurant, to Teoh, is about making the dining experience memorable for every customer. “People can forget the meal in two days, but the memory of the company and how they felt [in that moment] is what’s more important.
“[My team and I] are the supporting actors, the background crew at the restaurant. When people come in to enjoy themselves, we set the stage that helps them commemorate that moment.”
