Start The New Year Right With Lord Jim's New Menu
Lord Jim's at the Mandarin Oriental has been a long-time favourite amongst the Tatler crowd, so the renovations the restaurant underwent last year has elicited both excitement and apprehension amongst its diehard fans. Both architect and kitchen teams wanted to give the riverside locale a breath of fresh air while preserving the essence that has won over their most loyal diners. We visited the newly reopened Lord Jim's to determine whether these goals have been met and, of course, to taste the food from a brand new chef.
A new logo welcomes you at the entrance. It's a stylish nod to yachting. The whole interiors, in fact, now take on the warmth of a wooden pleasure boat, with art deco finishings. The wooden room with is embellished with golden accents, white marble lamps, sapphire hued cushioned seats and indigo shibori patterns that collectively offer a serene luxury to the indispensable riverine scenery.
What we're really here for though is the new menu devised by chef Nick Gannaway. Born in Singapore and raised in Australia, the now 32-year-old began his culinary journey at the age of 17. The self-proclaimed food lover had his apprenticeship under renowned culinary masters, such as Ross Lusted at Sydney’s Bridge Room and Rene Redzepi at Noma, Copenhagen. Now helming Mandarin Oriental’s prestigious restaurant, chef Gannaway is fighting to implement his personal philosophy of sustainability, gearing towards smaller, local producers and minimising unnecessary importation of ingredients— not simple tasks he admits.
Chef Gannaway suggests fresh oysters for starters. From the five selections, he recommends the Flame Basted Baby Boudeuse Oyster. The highlight of this dish is the use of the ancient flambadou technique, which the chef acquired from the Baltics. Blazing beef tallow is sprinkled onto the David Hervé oyster and topped with refreshing starfruit, green apple, raspberry vinegar and fresh horseradish for a perfect concoction to prepare your stomach for the rest of the feast.
We follow the mollusk starter with the Steamed Hokkaido Scallop Pudding, served with sweetcorn and grilled enoki mushroom with aromatic butter sauce. Chef Gannaway has invested in his new furnace, which he uses eucalyptus wood to burn, so definitely try some of the restaurant’s grilled items as well. The Tomahawk, made with black onyx rib, is tender, accompanied by a selection of dips including Japanese style ponzu and Thai sour and spicy Jaew sauce. For lighter coloured meats, the whole Spanish Sea Bass with roasted chicken butter is complexity on the palate. Order the fragrant green salad as a side and leave some room for the Arlette's biscuit, an adaptation of the chef’s childhood favourite, Vanilla Slice.
Also don't forget to explore the extensive wine list or the wine pairing service by the sommelier who is pretty much in an amorous relationship with his job.
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Ave
Monday-Friday noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Saturday 11:30am-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Sunday 11am-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm
026 599 000, firstname.lastname@example.org