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Digest The Simple Comforts Of Mia

The Simple Comforts Of Mia

The Simple Comforts Of Mia
Refreshing scallop carpaccio with zesty shiso and green mango ice cream
By Matt Wilde
October 21, 2019
There is much to admire at new eatery Mia, not least chef Top Russell’s technically sophisticated but delightfully unaffected take on European flavours embellished with Asian influences

Mia restaurant and bar is a collaboration between chef Julien Imbert, a graduate of the kitchens of iconic restaurants such as Jason Atherton’s City Social and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, and accomplished chef-duo Top Pongcharn Russell and Michelle Goh, previously of Freebird and Sühring respectively.

Prior to Mia, the couple ran their own popular pop-up chef’s table called Ter’ra at House of Sub-Zero and Wolf on Thong Lor. The cuisine then erred on the side of fine dining, which is not the case with their new venture. That is not to say Mia lacks sophistication—far from it. It boasts an informal but subtly chic atmosphere encompassing cocktail and dessert bars downstairs and three dining areas upstairs—the lushly upholstered dining pods of the Colour Room, the romantically envisioned Floral Room for more intimate dining, and the more masculine Dark Room with its grey-ink blue colour scheme and moody lighting. The setting chimes with an equally relaxed but considered menu of modern European dishes cooked in the French spirit but incorporating here and there an Asian edge that adds to the flavour profile.

Hot smoked salmon dressed with salsa and beautiful pearls of ikura roe
Hot smoked salmon dressed with salsa and beautiful pearls of ikura roe

In fact, when asked to describe his food a flash of irritation passes over Top’s face. “I hate all those naff culinary descriptions—nose-to-tail, farm-to-table, etcetera. How about we call it elevated comfort food or from fork to mouth?” he laughs. “Look, we make no claims about our culinary style or using premium imported ingredients and so on. It’s simple. We shop locally for good quality fresh produce—which is abundant and allows us to keep our prices down—and use predominantly French techniques to turn ingredients into flavoursome dishes patrons will enjoy and want to have again.”

A dish of grilled aubergine in a wonderfully rich home-made Sriracha sauce epitomises Mia's comfort food
A dish of grilled aubergine in a wonderfully rich home-made Sriracha sauce epitomises Mia's comfort food

I hate all those naff culinary descriptions—nose-to-tail, farm-to-table, etcetera.

Pongcharn Russell

Mia’s menu is divided into snacks, hot and cold starters, picks from the land and sea, dishes for two to share, great sides and a selection of sweet endings created by accomplished pastry chef Michelle Goh at her dedicated dessert bar. From the snacks section start with the intriguing foie gras donut, a spiced sugar-dusted affair filled with a generous slab of pan-fried foie gras. Offering soft and firm textures, it is rich but offset by a wonderfully sweet-tart prune jam. A lighter option is chilled oyster with ponzu, apple and cucumber. Bright and vibrant in presentation and taste, it positively sparkles on the tongue.

From the hot choices, highly recommended is aubergine with silky tofu and homemade Sriracha sauce. Dark and rich, the addictive sauce has an almost beef-like flavour and is very satisfying. Also excellent is the cold offering of scallop carpaccio with shiso and green mango ice cream. Delicate where the aubergine is heavy, each mouthful bursts with zesty flavour and ends on a refreshing note of dill.

Tender pork chop is elevated with a tangy piperade and chorizo jam
Tender pork chop is elevated with a tangy piperade and chorizo jam

Meat lovers will enjoy the succulent grilled pork chop served with a spicy piperade, peppercorn sauce and chorizo jam, but do also consider hot smoked salmon with ikura salsa. It comes with a gorgeous velvety potato veloute. Both are enhanced by a divine side dish of grilled broccolini bathed in a piquant Asian-style sesame-soy dressing.

If you are entertaining your innamorata also check the sharing plates. Hearty choices include grilled lobster risotto, Moroccan spiced lamb shoulder and an impressive 800g wagyu flank steak. To finish, try the decadent dark chocolate ganache cut through with a refreshing chilli-infused ice cream.

Chocolate ganache with chilli ice cream provides a decadent end to a meal
Chocolate ganache with chilli ice cream provides a decadent end to a meal

Under the watchful eye of genial general manager Arthur Loustau, service at Mia is efficient and friendly and wine and cocktail recommendations are—as with menu prices generally—very sensible. It all adds up to a pleasing, casual communal dining experience you will almost certainly want to repeat.

Mia
30 Athakravi 1, Sukhumvit Soi 26
Open Tues-Sun, 6pm-midnight
09-8862-9659

More Tatler reviews: High Expectations Met At Lebua Bangkok's Chef's Table
 

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Digest Mia Top Russell Pongcharn russell restaurant review fine dining

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