High Expectations Met At Lebua Bangkok's Chef's Table
Located on the 61st floor of lebua Bangkok, Chef’s Table is the iconic hotel’s latest gastronomic addition. It offers a superlative dining experience set against panoramic vistas of the city’s skyline. But beyond the stunning backdrop, the restaurant is imbued with a charismatic feel that is at once chic and dynamic.
Central to the space is a striking cream and brass Molteni stove set in a Carrara marble-clad cooking station fashioned in a crescent shape. This stately open kitchen offers a theatrical element for any visiting gourmand, a tableau in which chef de cuisine Vincent Thierry and his team create classic French fare with an imaginative finesse.
A native of France’s Loire Valley, Thierry is currently Bangkok’s first resident three-Michelin-star affiliated chef—having formerly headed Caprice at Four Seasons Hong Kong, which earned this prestigious accolade during his time at the helm. At Chef’s Table, his culinary creations adeptly reflect his personal cooking ethos, which he describes as “classic French cuisine prepared with simplicity and unpretentiousness”. Following an 80/20 per cent philosophy, he sources most of his produce in Thailand—the remaining constituents being top-quality imported ingredients. The glorious scoop of butter served with a basket of wonderful warm bread, for instance, is churned daily using cream from Khao Yai.
Diners can design their own haute French culinary experience from the seven-course set menu, picking their preferred choice of dishes with options for wine pairing. Our dinner commences with a refreshing starter of king crab tiramisu. Juicy chunks of crabmeat with fruits marinated in tandoori spice mix present explosive flavours that are delicately balanced by a silky, lightly spiced mascarpone cream. Next, a platter of perfectly cooked Scottish langoustine is paired with sweetbread, wherein both of the savoury characters marry wonderfully with a fennel confit and shellfish emulsion.
Thierry’s rendition of foie gras, a French classic, proves to be a lovely transition to the night’s main dishes. Beautifully seared, it is served with a velvety carrot fondant and finished with a bright topping of citrusy fruits and fermented vegetables. Roasted monkfish topped with a luxurious slice of Mediterranean botargo, which is a delicacy of salted cured fish roe, takes centre stage. Impeccably roasted so that the meat is still firm and luscious, the fish is accompanied by sweet apricot chutney, savoury eggplant caviar and aromatic rosemary sauce. The star of the dinner, however, is a new dish on the menu—a gorgeous cut of Castillian beef tenderloin served with grilled potato, onion and bone marrow. Cooked to a medium blush as recommended, each rich and tender bite goes brilliantly with a flavoursome black truffle sauce.
Serving just 49 covers across the outlet’s roomy interior, dining here is an intimate affair ideal for any special occasion. While the Chao Phraya River and Bangkok twinkles below, diners are encouraged to take seats where they can watch the magic unfold in the open kitchen. Together with Thierry’s buoyant personality, exceptional cuisine and fantastic service, it makes the dining experience at Chef’s Table truly extraordinary.
61st Floor, lebua Bangkok, 1055 Silom Road
Open Tuesday-Sunday 6-10pm
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