Cover Chilled abalones galore at Happy Chefs Happy Friends (Photo: @dinewithyy/Instagram)

Get clued into the speakeasy restaurants dishing out some of the city's most coveted culinary creations—reservations absolutely required

In Hong Kong, it's an open secret that the city's Cantonese private kitchens are the best places to go for dishes that showcase culinary flair both of their respective chef-owners and of the regional cuisine, all in homey, unpretentious surroundings. As with most private kitchens, advance bookings are essential—at some, prospective diners are advised to book up to an entire year in advance.

With the extended lead time, the proprietors are given the freedom to tackle complex, time-consuming recipes either of their own making or drawn from recipes that have fallen out of favour, resulting in ostentatious dishes that can't be found anywhere else. Here, we round up the worthiest venues.

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$ $ $ $   |   Cheung Sha Wan
Tatler Asia
Above Photo: @dribsandnibs/Instagram

With a culinary career that began in his teens and saw him rise to head chef at several five-star hotels, Master Huen brings more than 40 years of experience to the plate. Meanwhile, Mrs Huen orchestrates the front of house, ensuring their signature seafood dishes such as the salt and pepper mantis shrimp of gigantic proportions, arrive to the table with great fanfare.


Master Huen

Address: 4 Kim Shin Lane, Cheung Sha Wan, Hong Kong


$ $ $ $   |   Sai Ying Pun
Tatler Asia
Above Stuffed glutinous rice chicken (Photo: Gavin Yeung/Tatler Dining)

Tucked in Lai On Lane in Sai Ying Pun, this charming establishment serves time and labour-intensive Cantonese dishes that have fallen out of favour in more commercial kitchens, as well as rare meats to test your appetite. An alum of Yung Kee, the chef works wonders with a minuscule kitchen to put out mouthwatering dishes like roasted chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, crocodile clay pot, and braised deer tendons with black pepper.


Mei Mei Yuen 美味苑

Address: G/F, 8-10 Lai On Lane, 296 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong


$ $ $ $   |   Sheung Wan
Tatler Asia
Above Fried milk with lobster (Photo: Gavin Yeung/Tatler Dining)

Translating to ‘moustachioed man’ in Cantonese, this frenetically decorated private kitchen in Sheung Wan was opened by an ex-triad member who switched careers after some pleading from his wife. Nowadays he puts his cleaver to more benevolent use, using it to chop up dishes like smoked soy sauce chicken and first-cut char siu. The fried lobster with milk and fish maw fried rice are also not to be missed.


Wu So Lo 鬍鬚佬私房菜

Address: Flat A-C, 5/F, Shing Hing Commercial Building, 21-27 Wing Kut Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong


$ $ $ $   |   Hung Hom
Tatler Asia
Above Photo: @dinewithyy/Instagram

Helmed by a seasoned chef with two decades of experience in Hong Kong and Shanghai, and supported by his devoted wife-turned-manager, this private kitchen is an intimate affair with only four tables, coveted by Hong Kong diners who wait up to a year for the privilege of tasting its Cantonese delicacies. Must-tries include chilled South African abalone, stir-fried crab sauce with toasted baguette, fresh lime saliva chicken, Typhoon Shelter lobster and golden crab lotus leaf rice.


Happy Chefs Happy Friends 東煮友喜私房菜

Address: G/F, 73 Sung Kit Street, Hung Hom, Hong Kong


$ $ $ $   |   Yuen Long
Tatler Asia
Above Photo: @wendyswokworld/Instagram

When Columbia graduate Sam Lui embarked on a project to explore Chinese traditions through the lens of wok cookery, she intended it to be purely conceptual, with “Wendy's Wok World” as her alter-ego. Today, the private dinners she holds in her family home in Sheung Shui are the talk of the town, thanks to her wok skills and intriguing ambition.

Lui, one of Tatler Dining's Rising Star awardees in 2020, regularly hosts Cantonese food enthusiasts and the simply curious in banquet-style semi-outdoor dinners on the grounds of her family's soy sauce farm. Since beginning in 2018, Wendy's Wok World has evolved from a performance art project exploring notions of tradition and authenticity, into what is now a private kitchen serving vegetable-focused takes on dishes such as mapo tofu and typhoon shelter sea cucumber.

The wok master-in-training is continuing to test her limits through cooking in different environments, from residencies in New York by the invitation of the Swiss Institute, to the Baan Trok Tua Ngork heritage space in Bangkok.


Wendy's Wok World

Address: Kwu Tung, Hong Kong


$ $ $ $   |   Tsim Sha Tsui
Tatler Asia
Above Stuffed orange with crab meat and roe (Photo: George Private Kitchen)

What began as retired businessman George Ip's personal project to help renowned food writer and cookbook author Chan Kei-Lum photograph his recipes quickly ballooned into something much bigger, when Ip's own interest in cooking was ignited after experimenting with cooking Chan's recipes himself. Weekly meals for friends and family led to a fundraising dinner for Ip's alma mater, followed by pop-ups and private bookings. Soon, George Private Kitchen was born. At his quirkily decorated space in Tsim Sha Tsui, Ip focuses on artisanal, time-intensive dishes that showcase Chinese culture and heritage for up to 50 guests at a time. Signature dishes include the Jiangnan Baihua Chicken, where all the bones are removed without breaking the skin, before the bird is filled with a fresh shrimp-paste stuffing; as well as other revived historical imperial dishes like stuffed orange with crab meat and roe, and pork knuckle stuffed with pigeon.


George Private Kitchen 冲菜

Address: 9/F, Charmhill Centre, 50 Hillwood Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong


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