“My relentless dedication has always been fuelled by the belief that Singaporean cuisine can shine on the international stage, standing proudly alongside the ‘big’ cuisines, and transcending its reputation as mere hawker fare or street food,” Lim says.

As high an honour as it is, Lim, who also founded casual Singaporean eatery Chope Chope in Taipei, does not see the achievement as a “pinnacle”. Rather, he says, it is an “invaluable ticket” for Singapore cuisine to shine on a global stage. “All the years of unwavering effort have led us to this moment, a chance to step into the spotlight and showcase the essence of Singaporean cuisine.

“I couldn't be more excited about the chapters yet to unfold.”

From father to son

The road to greatness is never easy. For Lim, it meant years of kitchen training, starting from formal training at Shatec before entering culinary competitions like the Global Young Chefs Challenge (in which he took home gold). He then went on to work for a string of reputable restaurants in Singapore and abroad, including Michelin-starred restaurants The French Laundry, Per Se, and Denmark’s Noma. He eventually found himself in Taiwan, under rather serendipitous circumstances (more on that later). But all this might not have happened if not for Lim’s father, who prompted him to rethink his life plans when an unexpected injury halted his professional basketball career.  

“Think of something to feed yourself in future, the ball is not going to feed you forever,” his dad had said. “During that period of introspection, I pondered what my life could look like without basketball. It was then that I realised cooking was a natural fit for me,” Lim recounts. 

Perhaps it was all in the stars and he was always meant for culinary brilliance, but Lim credits a large part of his remarkable journey to having an awe-inspiring dad, whose passion for food and dedication to the craft continues to influence him today.

“From a young age, my appreciation for food was unknowingly influenced by [my late father]. Whether it was a special occasion or a regular meal, he would go to great lengths to find the best places to eat…Thanks to him, I was exposed to a wide variety of flavours beyond Chinese cuisine, and he had a deep appreciation for Indian and Malay food as well.”

From his dad, Lim learned how important it was to invest in the freshest and finest ingredients, and to always prioritise quality over profit. “What truly set him apart,” Lim says, “was how he treated his guests like lifelong friends.” 

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But it was not just a love for food that he inherited from the elder Lim. He vividly recalls seeing the elder Lim working while seriously ill, face pale and body drenched in sweat. Concerned, the young man urged his dad to take the day off to recuperate, but his dad firmly disagreed. “He looked me in the eye and said: ‘We’re supposed to be open today. If our guests come and find us closed, they’ll be disappointed. This is also a matter of trust and commitment to them.’,” Lim recounts. 

This unwavering work ethic had a profound influence on Lim, and is probably a big part of how he’s managed to find his way up the Michelin ranks after debuting with an impressive two stars in 2020. “I miss him deeply and am filled with gratitude for the lessons he imparted and the emotions he stirred within me,” Lim says.

Twist of fate

Lim confesses he had no intention of working in Taiwan at the start of his career, but as fate would have it, a holiday to the island turned into opportunity when he was offered a job at a small bistro. He accepted, of course. But before long, he began to miss the more intense culinary world he came from. “I found myself at a crossroads, torn between staying in Taiwan or returning to Singapore. Despite the uncertainty, my heart longed to explore more of Taiwan's unique lifestyle,” he says.

A key turning point came in the form of Le Moût, a French fine dining restaurant in Taichung helmed by acclaimed chef Chen Lanshu. Lim entered Le Moût as chef de partie, and was head chef by the time he left. But he says the achievement would not have been possible without chef Chen, whom he sees as his mentor. 

“I gained invaluable experiences that moulded my career. The freedom to explore new culinary horizons became an immeasurable gift. The mentorship, the opportunities, and the trust bestowed upon me were more than I could have ever hoped for as a budding chef,” he says. “I am overflowing with gratitude for the memories and lessons I accumulated during my tenure [at Le Moût]. If given the chance to choose a mentor again, I wouldn't hesitate for a moment–chef Chen Lanshu will always be my chef.”

A Singaporean in Taichung

After eight years in Taichung, there was no question in his mind that the metropolitan city surrounded by nature’s wonders was the right place to open his own restaurant. It helped that the genial people of Taichung were “some of the most gracious, hospitable, and hardworking individuals” he had ever encountered. 

Importantly, Lim had discovered by then that Taichung, with its surrounding farmlands, was “a veritable treasure trove of culinary delights”. As a chef, Lim saw value in the abundance of fresh vegetables, fruits, poultry, and even caviar in nearby Guguan.

“Choosing Taichung as the home for JL Studio was not just logical but also a heartfelt decision fueled by gratitude for the remarkable resources this unique place provides.

“I am filled with deep gratitude towards Taiwan. It's here that I’ve accomplished every significant milestone in my career. I’m profoundly thankful that they not only embraced my culinary vision and message but, most importantly, embraced me for who I am as a person,” he says.

And just like that, Lim embarked on a mission to introduce his refined brand of Singapore cuisine to a global audience. “I’ve poured my heart and soul into this endeavour, hoping to prove that Singaporean cuisine can proudly stand alongside the world’s renowned culinary traditions, infused with its own unique twist,” he says. 

Just as pasta and pizza can be enjoyed in both humble pizzerias and fine dining restaurants, Singapore’s Hokkien mee and chicken rice can also be elevated and savoured as part of a fine dining experience. “Why can’t we welcome the innovation and elevation of our own cuisine, just as we do with others? It’s a question that fills me with hope and determination as we strive to change this narrative, one extraordinary dish at a time,” he says.

And changing the narrative is exactly what Lim is doing. In its guide, Michelin described Lim’s dishes as “complex, sophisticated and understated with an element of surprise”. In his hands, Singapore’s most beloved street foods have finally found a place among the stars. But the mission is far from over.

“Beyond the kitchen, I hold a hopeful aspiration for more opportunities and broader platforms to showcase the flavours of Singaporean cuisine and the incredible produce that Taiwan has to offer,” Lim thoughtfully says. 

Refusing to name a favourite creation, Lim says each dish born from his hands comes from “a specific state of mind, a unique moment in time”.

“I don’t want to stop; I want to remain hungry, always on the hunt for the next creation that surpasses the last.”

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