Seoul, South Korea
Cover Seoul, South Korea (Photo: Unsplash/Ann Danilina)

A recent trip to Seoul has inspired our senior dining writer, gastronomically speaking

The K-fever is not limited to K-dramas and K-pop. The love extends even to its food, which has become a global phenomenon. Remember the scene from Oscar Best Picture Parasite that ignited the ram-don craze?

Excited about my first trip to Seoul, I collected a list of recommendations during conversations with colleagues, friends, and industry peers, and marked the respective locations on Naver (Korea's version of Google Maps, as the latter doesn't function in the country). 

Out of the spots I managed to tick off the list, these were my most memorable meals. 

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Wake early for breakfast at Café Onion Anguk 

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Pandoro and cheese garlic bread at Cafe Onion, Anguk
Above Pandoro and cheese garlic bread at Café Onion Anguk
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Cheese pastries at Cheese Industry
Above Cheese pastries at Cheese Industry

If you happen to be up at the crack of dawn, head to Café Onion Anguk, the hanok-themed cafe near Gyeongbokgung Palace. The line starts building up as soon as the café opens at 7am (even on a weekday) and can stretch around the road leading up to the eatery.

Staff walk out of the kitchen, carrying trays of weird and wonderful creations, the most popular being the mountain-like Pandoro, which are snapped up as soon as the tray is placed down. A firm favourite for me, however, was the savoury-sweet cheese and garlic bun. 

As much as Café Onion Anguk is worth visiting for its Instagram-friendly interior and pastries, Seoul is not short of cafés, each with its own distinct theme. From Café Knotted’s doughnuts and Café Layered’s bear-themed bakes to Cheese Industry’s cheesecakes shaped like a wheel of cheese, walk around any neighbourhood and you’ll find yourself spoiled for choice when deciding what to try. 

Cafe Onion Anguk, 5 Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, +82 70 7543 2123

Don’t miss a meal at Myeongdong Kyoja

As impossible as it is to choose one particular favourite meal from my trip, Myeongdong Kyoja is a strong contender. Only four dishes are available, the two most popular being the kalguksu (knife-cut noodles in soup) and the mandu (dumplings). All dishes are served with a side of kimchi packed with garlic. Portions are generous and the fare is hearty. Paired with affordable prices, there is little not to like about the family-owned restaurant.

Myeongdong Kyoja, 29 Myeongdong 10-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, +82 2 776 5348

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For a special something, head to Ikseon Banju

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Octopus carpaccio and scallop pasta at Iksun Banjoo
Above Octopus carpaccio and scallop pasta at Ikseon Banju
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Pork jowl at Iksun Banjoo
Above Pork jowl at Ikseon Banju

This restaurant was a recommendation from food writer and video creator Yi Jun Loh upon his return from a trip a few weeks before mine. “Out of this world” were his exact words and fault him I cannot.

Ikseon Banju puts a modern spin on local ingredients through visually enticing dishes that don’t skimp on flavour. The scallop pasta was a firm favourite, as was the octopus carpaccio. A highlight, however, was the restaurant’s makgeolli, made in-house. 

Ikseon Banju, 31 Donhwamun-ro 11da-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, +82 2 529 3979

Treat yourself to a bowl of samgyetang on a cold day

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Sangyetang at Korea Samgyetang
Above Sangyetang at Korea Samgyetang
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Rotisserie chicken at Korea Samgyetang
Above Rotisserie chicken at Korea Samgyetang

There are few things more comforting than a pot of warm samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup), especially on a rainy day. We found ourselves at Korea Samgyetang taking shelter from the rain after leaving the Seoul Museum of Art and decided to sit down for a meal.

Served in stone pots, the soup comes out steaming. Inside, you’ll find a whole spring chicken, grown to fit perfectly inside the bowl, stuffed with glutinous rice, chestnuts, dates, and ginseng.

The rotisserie chicken is also a must-order, with crispy, wafer-thin skin that crackles upon touch. Served alongside are cups of Insam-ju (ginseng wine), often seen in clear bottles with the whole ginseng root visible.

Korea Samgyetang, 1 Seosomun-ro 11-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, +82 2 752 9376

For something local, visit Gwangjang Market and Noryangjin Fisheries

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Kimchi at Gwangjang Market
Above Kimchi at Gwangjang Market
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Crab at Noryangjin Fish Market
Above Crab at Noryangjin Fisheries

I was amazed by the different varieties of kimchi as well as the abundance of local fare from pancakes to tteokboki (rice cakes) at Gwangjang Market. Speaking of street food, you’ll likely spot the noodle-making aunty wearing pink from Netflix’s Street Food—she’s hard to miss as there is typically a large crowd surrounding her stall. 

Less frequented by tourists, but just as worthwhile for a taste of fresh seafood, is indoor market, Noryangjin Fisheries. Try the selection of sashimi cut fresh by the fishmongers on the spot or just admire the vast amounts of seafood Seoul has to offer. 

Gwangjang Market, 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, +82 2 2267 0291

Noryangjin Fisheries, 674 Nodeul-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul, +82 2 2254 8000

Slurp raw marinated crab

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Raw marinated crab at Hangaram
Above Raw marinated crab at Hangaram

If you haven’t yet tried raw marinated crab, what better place than Seoul? As per its namesake, the dish is made by marinating fresh crabs in a soy-based brine, best eaten by sucking the flesh straight from the shells. Jinmi Sikdang, Gebangsikdang, and Odarijip are three popular places for the delicacy.

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For honeycomb makgeolli, visit Sinsajeon

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Fresh honeycomb
Above Fresh honeycomb
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Honeycomb makgeolli at Sinsajeon
Above Honeycomb makgeolli at Sinsajeon

If you’ve watched any Seoul travel videos, you are likely to have chanced upon one of Sinsajeon’s honeycomb makgeolli. Fresh honeycomb is scooped out of its case, sliced, and placed into clear glasses before the sparkling rice wine is poured over. 

Sinsajeon, 18 Dosan-daero 11-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, +82 2 3443 9991

End your night at Bar Cham

Ranked #28 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022 list, Bar Cham was recommended to me by Jordan Lim, Beam Suntory brand ambassador. Housed in a traditional hanok, the word "cham" translates into oak, which is featured heavily in the bar's cosy interior.

We enjoyed a creamy cocktail made with Mowolin (distilled liquor made with locally grown rice), mezcal, corn cream, and corn silk, but a favourite was a gimbap-inspired cocktail infused with wasabi. 

Bar Cham, 34 Jahamun-ro 7-gil, Tongin-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, +82 2 6402 4750 

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Photography  

Katelyn Tan

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