Restaurant Review: Côte Raises A Toast To The Coast
Capella Bangkok celebrated its grand opening with the synchronous launch of its fine dining restaurant, Côte, the first Southeast Asian outpost of illustrious chef Mauro Colagreco. The Italian-Argentine maestro is the man behind three-Michelin-starred Mirazur in Menton, France, which took the number one spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2019. From the picturesque shores of the Côte d’Azur to the quaint banks of the Chao Phraya River, the haute cuisine establishment elegantly introduces Colagreco’s gastronomic artistry—a contemporary reinterpretation of the traditional recipes and culinary heritage of the French and Italian Rivieras. Bangkok’s kitchen team is led by executive chef Anthony Scholtmeyer, chef de cuisine Marc Vasseur and chef Davide Garavaglia, former chef de cuisine at Mirazur.
Colagreco’s cuisine is influenced by his mixed background, travels and culinary training. There is, however, a distinctive respect for the Mediterranean Riviera with seasonal menus dominated by seafood and vegetables presented in a modest yet elegant way. Flavours are light and fresh—with emphasis on ingredients rather than seasonings—while botanicals and herbs are used purely for aroma and never as mere decoration. To complete the dining experience, wine pairings are curated by Thanakorn Bottorff, Capella Bangkok’s head sommelier, whose list for the hotel consists of 550 labels—70 per cent comprising organic or biodynamic variations from artisanal winemakers.
Diners are given the option of a la carte dishes as well as tasting menus—we opt for the full experience Carte Blanche (nine courses). The amuse bouche comes as bite-sized teasers to the meal: a tartlette of ricotta, trout roe and crunchy rice puffs topped with lemon peel offers a luscious taste of the sea, while a creamy blood pudding macaron paired with sharp green apple slivers pleases the palate. Don’t skip the bread course, especially the signature sharing roll, which comes pillowy on the inside and crusty on the outside, perfect with Colagreco’s famed lemon and ginger olive oil. A poetic gesture, the loaf is presented with the words to Pablo Neruda’s poem Oda al Pan.
The meal proper commences with a refreshing starter of raw red prawns with lime gel, raspberries and yuzu foam. Following is a petite bowl of sweet, creamy uni topped with almond and horseradish infused espuma for a light sharpness. Next, French blue lobster arrives perfectly poached, its natural sweetness nicely complemented by a light carrot consommé and tangy passion fruit. Transitioning to more rounded flavours, seared squid is served with trumpet zucchinis, mushroom foam and white truffles. The dish’s earthy profile makes an interesting counterpoint to a buttery burgundy sauce.
Up next, Japanese clams with cod tripe, sweet peas and sea asparagus, which is beautifully presented in a thick and creamy pil pil sauce—the result an intricate combination of textures. From Mediterranean waters, turbot—with its firm meat and mild taste—goes pleasantly with a light Jerusalem artichoke purée, mushrooms and white truffle. Moving onto the land, pigeon is served tender and pink and is completed with the bird’s jus, barley risotto, parmesan sauce and kale. For our sweet courses, we enjoy a refreshing shiso sorbet with dehydrated strawberries, mascarpone cream and strawberry gelée, followed by a parsnip mille-feuille featuring complex layers of caramelised milk skin with parsnip and banana purée.
Set in a gorgeous beige interior that blends with the resort’s beautiful design, Côte is ideal for both laid-back lunch and special occasion dinners. This Christmas and New Year will be the perfect time to indulge in the restaurant’s festive menus while enjoying panoramic views of the Chao Phraya River.
Côte By Mauro Colagreco
Capella Bangkok, 300/2 Charoenkrung Road
Open: Wednesday-Sunday, lunch: noon-2pm; dinner: 6pm-10pm
More Tatler reviews: David Thompson's New Restaurant, Aksorn, Does Not Play By The Book